Inside the Current Issue

Two Wines for Under Five

Spencer Sunshine

Last issue, Harlan Whatley presented us with two nice wines that clocked in under $10. But his presentation just begged the question -- can you get a decent bottle of vin -- in a bottle, mind you, with a cork -- for under FIVE dollars? I went to the two of my favorite bottom-barrel liquor stores to find out.

Gato Negro Merlot (Vina San Pedro, 2004)
$4.59 at Bay River Wines and Liquors, 539 5th Avenue (between 14th & 15th), Park Slope, Brooklyn

When I moved to my apartment three years ago, they would laugh at you if you called 5th Ave. and 14th Street "Park Slope" -- but these days it's firmly in the center of things (like gentrification). Nonetheless, while my local liquor store may close its doors early in the evening, the prices stay low (at least until the legwarmer quota rises a bit more). With their help I've recently made the move away from California Cabernet Savignons to Chilean Merlots as my favorite in the cheap wine department -- but can it fly for under $5?

The answer is: sometimes. This Gato Negro has the odd tendency to taste firmly decent for the first glass or two, and then suddenly to take a dive. Normally one would think that after a little alcohol hits the bloodstream, and the wine can breathe for a few precious minutes between uncorking-and-stomach, the taste buds loosen up and grant the former grapes some extra breathing room. But no. While the label says that it is "medium-bodied with intense and juicy ripe fruit aromas. The flavors of pure fruit together with soft tannins make for an extremely pleasant easy-drinking red wine," the fact of the matter is that this bottle was pretty bad from the get-go. While I have had barely-acceptable experiences with Black Cat in the past, I must regard this one solidly as a failure.

Leaping Horse Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (2004)
$3.99 at Liquor Warehouse, Broadway & 8th Street, West Village
I can't remember how I discovered Liquor Warehouse, located at the headwaters of St Marks Place (alas, it's not in the East Village by virtue of it being on the wrong side of the street). Nonetheless, it is a paradise for anyone in search of serious party provisions, with the cheapest liquor prices I have seen in the city. And they always have an array of less-then-$6 wines, constantly taunting the passer-by with the whisper -- "c'mon, take a chance, maybe there really IS a drinkable $4 wine!"

Can Laughing Horse pass the test? Well, maybe. The label claims that it is "rich, well structured and medium bodied," and that the "seductive smokey oak, sweet cassis and dark berry flavors, makes this a wine to enjoy tonight." I guess I enjoyed it, but more for the novelty -- it tasted slightly carbonated. Not in a bad way, mind you. In fact, otherwise it had a pleasant fruity flavor. But I didn't expect to have a red wine spritzer -- at least not straight from the bottle. But if $4 is all you have, maybe Leaping Horse is for you.

Next time: A look at Scotch. Ahem.